Lonely Planet author Sara Benson is a big fan of Las Vegas. Traditionally a city of dirty little secrets, it's now a high-rolling playground where the $20 hotel room is now a thing of the past. It's all that you would expect - casinos, strip bars, drive-thru wedding chapels, $5 steaks - and some things you would not: chic art galleries, the Atomic Testing Museum and a serious underground punk scene. Beware, there's absolutely no rest for the good nor the wicked.

Lonely Planet author Sara Benson is a big fan of Las Vegas. Traditionally a city of dirty little secrets, it's now a high-rolling playground where the $20 hotel room is now a thing of the past. It's all that you would expect - casinos, strip bars, drive-thru wedding chapels, $5 steaks - and some things you would not: chic art galleries, the Atomic Testing Museum and a serious underground punk scene. Beware, there's absolutely no rest for the good nor the wicked.